The Journal
15 / 01 / 2025
Q&A with Diana Kakkar of MAES London

Moma Hilo x MAES London: A Conversation with Diana Kakkar on Craftsmanship, Community, and Ethical Fashion.
At Moma Hilo, we believe in the power of meaningful connections and ethical production, and we’re so excited to sit down with Diana Kakkar, the founder of MAES London one of our factories in North London. With a career that spans continents and a passion for reconnecting designers with local manufacturing, Diana’s vision for MAES London resonates deeply with our values. Here’s a closer look at her journey, her team, and the unique approach she’s taking to transform the fashion production process. Interviewed by our Founder, Penelope.
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Penelope: Diana, you’ve had such a fascinating journey that spans multiple countries and industries. Can you share a little about your path to founding MAES London and what sparked your desire to create a space for luxury local manufacturing?
Diana: My journey has been shaped by my global experiences and passion for craftsmanship. My experience working in the fashion industry, I became increasingly aware of the growing gap between high-end designers and local ateliers/manufacturers. While many designers had to rely on large-scale, overseas production, I felt there was a real need to reconnect these creatives with local, skilled manufacturers who shared their values. Large scale manufacturing relies on simplified designs, and sometimes high-end designers may not need the gamut of the scale those manufacturers provide.
That’s how the idea for MAES London came to life — a space where designers can work with local artisans, ensuring high-quality craftsmanship while supporting ethical production and sustainability.
Penelope: It sounds like a lot of thought went into the creation of MAES London. Was there a particular moment or experience in your career that made you realise there was a real gap in the luxury fashion industry for local manufacturing?
Diana: I was lucky enough to start working with Factories in my very first job when I was 22. This was nearly two decades ago, and the fashion landscape was different. Fast-fashion was on the rise but then Luxury E-com retailers like Net-a-porter were increasing the demand for high-end design too. This meant luxury design had to be created to scale.
I often witnessed designers and brands struggling to find right manufacturers who could meet the high standards of luxury craftsmanship. Many turned to overseas options, sacrificing quality or control in the process. Also the back and forth of samples between the factories and the brands caused costly delays, waste and not to mention high carbon footprint.
That realisation, paired with my desire to preserve traditional skills and foster collaboration locally, drove me to fill this gap by creating MAES London.
Penelope: One of the things that stands out about MAES London is your commitment to transparency and ethical manufacturing. Why is this so important to you on a personal level, and how do you bring this philosophy to life in the day-to-day operations of the studio?
Diana: Transparency and ethical practices are close to my heart because I believe in creating fashion that not only looks beautiful but also makes a positive impact by standing the test of time. I wanted to create a space where skilled artisans are valued and treated fairly and where clients have full visibility into the process. At MAES London, we prioritise fair wages, safe working conditions, and open communication with our clients. Whether it's sharing timelines, involving designers in the creative process, or sourcing responsibly, these principles guide everything we do. It's about building trust and creating pieces we can all be proud of.
"For me fashion is not only about clothes, but the story telling of the process"
Penelope: I know you’ve worked with a lot of designers—both emerging talents and established names. What do you think makes a strong, lasting relationship between a designer and their manufacturer, and what do you strive to offer your clients beyond high-quality production?
Diana: Designers need to feel that their manufacturer truly understands their creative vision and is committed to bringing it to life. At MAES London, we offer more than just production—we foster a collaborative environment where designers feel supported throughout the entire process. By taking the time to understand their needs and challenges, we provide high-quality production along with guidance, creativity, and flexibility. Our goal is to build lasting partnerships where both sides thrive and grow together.
I always say- we all are working towards the same goal. Making our designers successful.
Penelope: Sustainability is a huge priority for us at Moma Hilo, and it’s something I know you’re passionate about too. Can you tell us a bit about the sustainable practices you’ve put in place at MAES London and how you’re encouraging the designers you work with to think about sustainability in their collections?
Diana: I really love that Moma Hilo aligns with our values as sustainability is at the core of MAES London. We are committed to minimising our environmental impact by working with natural fabrics (where we have a say), creating products by hand, and reducing waste. Our flexible minimum order quantity (MOQ) approach supports mindful production, helping designers avoid overproduction.
We encourage sustainable practices throughout the design process, guiding our clients to create beautiful, long-lasting collections that align with both their vision and the planet’s well-being. We used to pay a company to shred our off-cuts into a new by-product but we are finding ways to reduce that cost but still create a circularity in that waste. Watch this space for more!
Penelope: MAES London is known for its beautiful, light-filled studio and collaborative atmosphere. What is it like for you working alongside your team and the designers you collaborate with? How do you keep the energy and creativity flowing in the studio?
Diana: Our Studio is truly where the magic happens, and I love seeing the creative energy flow between my team and the designers. We have an open, welcoming environment where ideas can be freely exchanged, and everyone feels like they have a voice. We hold regular catch-up sessions, where the team contributes ideas, discusses challenges, and shares solutions. It’s this sense of partnership and shared passion that keeps the energy flowing and sparks fresh ideas every day.
My role has changed significantly since I started the company over 7 years ago. A change I resisted as I loved getting involved in the products and projects. I guess that is the right of passage for every founder- but I learnt how to trust the team and that has worked magnificently, allowing me to push the business forward.
Penelope: A big part of your business is fostering a strong team of skilled professionals. How do you make sure your team feels supported and valued, and how does their expertise contribute to MAES London’s success?
Diana: Our team is everything. Without them, MAES London wouldn’t be what it is today. I make it a priority to ensure that each team member feels valued and supported, whether that’s through professional development opportunities or simply fostering a culture of appreciation. We collaborate closely, and everyone brings their own unique expertise to the table. Their knowledge, skill, and passion for the craft are what allow us to offer such high-quality products and exceptional service to our designers. It’s a team effort, and each person’s contribution is vital to our success.
I also recognise, that in my team we are mostly a team of immigrants choosing to work in London. So we try to make it an environment that they enjoy working in.
Penelope: The demand for ethical, transparent production is only growing, and it seems like the industry is starting to shift. How do you see the future of luxury fashion manufacturing evolving, and what role do you want MAES London to play in that change?
Diana: I believe the future of luxury fashion manufacturing is headed towards more ethical and sustainable practices. The shift is happening, and more and more consumers are seeking brands that align with their values. MAES London is embracing this change in proving that luxury doesn’t have to come at the cost of people or the planet. As the industry moves away from mass production, we aim to empower designers to make mindful, ethical choices, providing high-quality, locally produced garments.
"We’re committed to leading the way in creating a future where craftsmanship, sustainability, and community are integral to fashion".
Penelope: Looking ahead, what are some of the exciting things you’ve got planned for MAES London? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you’re especially excited about?
Diana: We have some exciting developments at MAES London. As we continue to grow, we’re expanding our services to meet the changing needs of designers. We are in the process of expanding our manufacturing services into Europe in 2025 and I’m especially excited about our ongoing collaborations with designers, helping them bring their creative visions to life while maintaining our commitment to sustainability and ethical practices. We’re also working on initiatives to enhance our role in supporting the local manufacturing ecosystem, making it more accessible and transparent.
I teach at LCF and the University of Westminster and collaborating with students and the next generation of designers is always eye-opening! It is exciting to see their passion for sustainability so embedded in their design culture- and I can't wait to grow with them to work towards a better fashion future!
You can learn more about MAES London at their website (click here).
Or follow them at their instagram page (click here).
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